I wrote this blog a couple days ago, and will post it now that we have internet. It's not updated with the last few days of the trip! I'll also update it with photos when (if) we get better internet access.
I think you'll find the quality of this blog will dwindle as time passes. The further north we go, the more remote we become, and the more spectacular the scenery. Naturally, the concept of blogging has become less and less important, so bare with us. I'll try to keep you updated on the big moments. But we're also already starting to get our days mixed up, so who knows how accurate I'll be.
I only fired up the computer today after the last bit of light was to be found surrounding the boat. We were too busy watching the sunset over the snow topped mountains, and keeping our eyes peeled for sea otters, whales and bears. We leapt for joy today when we saw our first whales in route - a group of (we think) four orcas spouting and gliding along Burke channel. It was magical. We also watched a huge group of sea otters yesterday as we crossed Cape Caution. They were adorably floating on their backs with their feet up in the air. There were hundreds of them and we coasted right through their territory without seeming to bother them in the slightest. Sadly, we haven't been so lucky with the bears. We keep comparing our experience to the Arctic Loon's last Alaska trip two summers ago. So far, we're ahead of the game with whales and otters, but behind with the bears. Of course, it's much earlier in the season this year, so we suspect the bears are still in hibernation and will be coming out soon.
One of the numerous reasons my mom and I love having Paula on board with us is for her bird watching expertise. Every once in a while, we'll hear her voice drop to a near whisper... "oh! Look at that flock of loons on the starboard side. Aren't they beautiful? That's the male and that's the female. He'll change colors in a couple months....and oh! See how that one has a red throat? That's rare. And those ones over there..." I'm making these specifics up, but Paula knows her stuff, and I've never looked at birds in the same way. It certainly makes the wildlife watching more uplifting on the days when we aren't so fortunate to see otters or whales.
Now that we're heartily into week two of the journey, it feels like the "vacation" has begun. Everywhere we go, the scenery takes our breath away. And the best part (for me at least,) is being so remote. We haven't had cell reception in days. You probably won't even find us on the marine tracking site I mentioned because there are no houses around (I'm not sure how that works, but there needs to be civilization nearby, and that's just not the case here). Today we weren't even able to get the radio weather report. Plus, one of the bonuses to starting this trip in the off season is the true lack of other boaters. The site of a fishing boat is becoming almost as exciting as a whale (emphasis on the almost). We have all the anchorage spots to ourselves, and can choose anywhere we like. Of course, my mom talks about all the characters she met two years ago while traveling this route in the peak season, and it would be nice to meet people like she did, but the feeling of solitude is not to be taken for granted.
I'll just list a short summary below of our route for those who are interested in where exactly we've been anchoring.
Nanaimo to Plumper: It was a beautiful calm sunny day and as we were enjoying the blue sky, a set of 6 military jets like the blue angels arrived and gave us a little air show. We watched them twirl and spin in unison over the mountains for about a half an hour. There's something new every day! The sunrise that morning was also particularly stunning because of the flock of surf scoters.. I'll try to post some pictures below.
Plumper to Miles Inlet: We had our first (almost) open water crossing to get to this tranquil little spot. It was beautiful and calm, and we really deserved the break. I had my first experience steering the boat in rough waters (usually we have the boat in auto-pilot with somebody pushing a button to turn it if need be), but rough waters require using the old-school steering wheel like a true ship's captain. I'd stare with my legs in a V staring straight ahead, trying to keep the boat going in a steady direction as we bobbed up and down. I loved the challenge, but I also had my first sea sickness due to the same waters. Thankfully, it didn't get bad and my mom was glad that her nifty new tool had come in handy. It was a watch-like device that sends some sort of nerve signals. It feels like your hand is being put to sleep every few seconds, and I couldn't stop laughing when I first felt the sensation. I think the laughter may have been the real cure.
Miles Inlet itself was beautiful. It was particularly rewarding because we had to pass through the tiniest of passages to get there. Captain Diana said we would think she was crazy when we saw it, and we did. Still, there was plenty of room, and despite the raging waves in the seas beyond, the water was utterly calm. In fact, it was so clear and still that you could see the reflection off the rock walls perfectly, creating images that looked symmetrical. Paula explained that this visual effect is part of the inspiration Native Americans use for totem poles.
Miles Inlet to Fury Cove: Another day of wild seas as we crossed Cape Caution, the only portion of the trip with open ocean. We hugged the coast, but if we looked west, we were looking across the Pacific. It was rough as expected, but surprisingly not as rough as the day before. It was rather cold and windy, and due to the weather, lacking spectacular views at first. But we did see the group of sea otters that day, so it made up for it.
Fury Cove to Cathedral Cove: Captain Diana was excited to take a route she hadn't done before, so we headed down calm Burke Channel after a short period of slightly rough waters. This is when it started to get jaw droppingly beautiful as we passed mountain after mountain. Our little bay has been my favorite anchorage spot yet. It sat at the base of snow topped mountains right next to a perfect bear watching beach (with no bears of course). I went for a little kayak ride and soaked it all in.
I think you'll find the quality of this blog will dwindle as time passes. The further north we go, the more remote we become, and the more spectacular the scenery. Naturally, the concept of blogging has become less and less important, so bare with us. I'll try to keep you updated on the big moments. But we're also already starting to get our days mixed up, so who knows how accurate I'll be.
I only fired up the computer today after the last bit of light was to be found surrounding the boat. We were too busy watching the sunset over the snow topped mountains, and keeping our eyes peeled for sea otters, whales and bears. We leapt for joy today when we saw our first whales in route - a group of (we think) four orcas spouting and gliding along Burke channel. It was magical. We also watched a huge group of sea otters yesterday as we crossed Cape Caution. They were adorably floating on their backs with their feet up in the air. There were hundreds of them and we coasted right through their territory without seeming to bother them in the slightest. Sadly, we haven't been so lucky with the bears. We keep comparing our experience to the Arctic Loon's last Alaska trip two summers ago. So far, we're ahead of the game with whales and otters, but behind with the bears. Of course, it's much earlier in the season this year, so we suspect the bears are still in hibernation and will be coming out soon.
One of the numerous reasons my mom and I love having Paula on board with us is for her bird watching expertise. Every once in a while, we'll hear her voice drop to a near whisper... "oh! Look at that flock of loons on the starboard side. Aren't they beautiful? That's the male and that's the female. He'll change colors in a couple months....and oh! See how that one has a red throat? That's rare. And those ones over there..." I'm making these specifics up, but Paula knows her stuff, and I've never looked at birds in the same way. It certainly makes the wildlife watching more uplifting on the days when we aren't so fortunate to see otters or whales.
Now that we're heartily into week two of the journey, it feels like the "vacation" has begun. Everywhere we go, the scenery takes our breath away. And the best part (for me at least,) is being so remote. We haven't had cell reception in days. You probably won't even find us on the marine tracking site I mentioned because there are no houses around (I'm not sure how that works, but there needs to be civilization nearby, and that's just not the case here). Today we weren't even able to get the radio weather report. Plus, one of the bonuses to starting this trip in the off season is the true lack of other boaters. The site of a fishing boat is becoming almost as exciting as a whale (emphasis on the almost). We have all the anchorage spots to ourselves, and can choose anywhere we like. Of course, my mom talks about all the characters she met two years ago while traveling this route in the peak season, and it would be nice to meet people like she did, but the feeling of solitude is not to be taken for granted.
I'll just list a short summary below of our route for those who are interested in where exactly we've been anchoring.
Nanaimo to Plumper: It was a beautiful calm sunny day and as we were enjoying the blue sky, a set of 6 military jets like the blue angels arrived and gave us a little air show. We watched them twirl and spin in unison over the mountains for about a half an hour. There's something new every day! The sunrise that morning was also particularly stunning because of the flock of surf scoters.. I'll try to post some pictures below.
Plumper to Miles Inlet: We had our first (almost) open water crossing to get to this tranquil little spot. It was beautiful and calm, and we really deserved the break. I had my first experience steering the boat in rough waters (usually we have the boat in auto-pilot with somebody pushing a button to turn it if need be), but rough waters require using the old-school steering wheel like a true ship's captain. I'd stare with my legs in a V staring straight ahead, trying to keep the boat going in a steady direction as we bobbed up and down. I loved the challenge, but I also had my first sea sickness due to the same waters. Thankfully, it didn't get bad and my mom was glad that her nifty new tool had come in handy. It was a watch-like device that sends some sort of nerve signals. It feels like your hand is being put to sleep every few seconds, and I couldn't stop laughing when I first felt the sensation. I think the laughter may have been the real cure.
Miles Inlet itself was beautiful. It was particularly rewarding because we had to pass through the tiniest of passages to get there. Captain Diana said we would think she was crazy when we saw it, and we did. Still, there was plenty of room, and despite the raging waves in the seas beyond, the water was utterly calm. In fact, it was so clear and still that you could see the reflection off the rock walls perfectly, creating images that looked symmetrical. Paula explained that this visual effect is part of the inspiration Native Americans use for totem poles.
Miles Inlet to Fury Cove: Another day of wild seas as we crossed Cape Caution, the only portion of the trip with open ocean. We hugged the coast, but if we looked west, we were looking across the Pacific. It was rough as expected, but surprisingly not as rough as the day before. It was rather cold and windy, and due to the weather, lacking spectacular views at first. But we did see the group of sea otters that day, so it made up for it.
Fury Cove to Cathedral Cove: Captain Diana was excited to take a route she hadn't done before, so we headed down calm Burke Channel after a short period of slightly rough waters. This is when it started to get jaw droppingly beautiful as we passed mountain after mountain. Our little bay has been my favorite anchorage spot yet. It sat at the base of snow topped mountains right next to a perfect bear watching beach (with no bears of course). I went for a little kayak ride and soaked it all in.
